Winter in the Okanagan

Think Canadian winters, and a few of the images that come to mind are icicles, toques and hockey sticks. And while many Canucks delight in the sight of a fresh covering of snow, conjuring visions of powdery white ski hills, few are enthusiastic about the frigid temperatures accompanying the white stuff. Unbearable winters may be as much of a Canadian trademark as the beaver itself, but not everyone in the country feels the sharp tines of Old Man Winter quite so severely.

Traditionally considered an exclusive summer destination, the Thompson Okanagan, in southcentral British Columbia, is known for its reliably hot and sun laden summers. But often overlooked is its winter season. Averaging a balmy 0 to -1 °C (32 to 30°F) during the winter, the area still receives a hearty helping of snow, proving there's no need to trade in winter's snowy charm in order to escape the dropping mercury. In fact, area ski hills can compete with many of the top hills in North America. All this, sans the frostbite.

So before trading in the ski jacket for a grass skirt, consider a winter vacation in Canada's Okanagan region, toque optional.

CLIMATE AND GEOGRAPHY

At a glance, there are hundreds of reasons to visit the Thompson Okanagan: unsurpassed scenery, hospitable people, relaxed atmosphere, the list goes on and on. Add in a temperate year-round climate (the mildest in the country) and interesting geographical features, suddenly hundreds of reasons to visit becomes thousands.

Map of the Thompson Okanagan

Geographically speaking, the Okanagan is as mixed as it gets. Colourful orchards, valleys, hoodoos, highlands, untouched wilderness and thousands of lakes are framed by a desert-like climate in the south, lush rainforest-type conditions in the north and two mountains ranges on the east and west, the Monashee Mountain Range and Cascade Mountains, respectively. In addition to being visually enticing, the varied geography also contributes to its mix in climate.

Located approximately 350 km (217 mi) northeast of Vancouver, Kamloops sits in the northwest part of the region and is the largest city in the Thompson Okanagan not situated in the Okanagan Valley. Although characterized by a dry, desert-like landscape, Kamloops comes complete with verdant rolling hills, over a thousand lakes and rivers and many parks and wilderness areas. It is also the part of the region that receives some of the most snow, and therefore offers a large range of choices for the winter recreationalist.

Heading southeast of Kamloops is the Okanagan Valley, which stretches from Vernon in the north to Osoyoos in the south. Carved in British Columbia's southern interior, the Okanagan Valley is one of the most recognizable features in the Okanagan landscape and contains the most activity. The valley walls work to help protect the area from harsh weather fluctuations and provides the perfect conditions for growing fruit crops. Although the Valley is only about 200 km (125 mi) long and 20 km (13 mi) wide, its geography and climate varies greatly.

Vernon, Kelowna and Penticton are all located in the northern Okanagan Valley, and therefore share some similar traits. For one, most of the region's orchards and wineries are concentrated here, as is most of the population. Kelowna is the largest city in the Okanagan, and offers the most accommodations and services.

The entire Okanagan Valley is almost dry enough to be called a desert, but this is especially true of its southern end, which is Canada's driest climate and only desert. Complete with cacti, the desert engulfing much of Osoyoos and parts of Oliver is actually a continuation of the Sonora Desert, which extends from Mexico. A perfect place to visit for those opposed to much snow, cold, or rain for that matter, the town of Osoyoos sees the least amount of precipitation in the country. Even in January, typically the coldest month, Osoyoos averages a balmy -2 ºC (28 ºF). For visitors, this means that many summer type activities can be enjoyed well into fall and winter.

(Click here for more detailed information on the Thompson Okanagan climate)

TRANSPORTATION

Because it is a popular tourist destination, the Thompson Okanagan is serviced by many major airlines. Kelowna has an international airport with regular flights to Calgary, Vancouver, Victoria and many other large centres. Kamloops and Penticton both have regional airports and fly to a few of the bigger cities in the province as well as smaller centres. The Calgary International Airport, approximately 595 km (378 mi) northeast of Kelowna and the Vancouver Airport, which is actually located in Richmond, roughly 393 km (244 mi) southwest, are the two closest major airports to Kelowna.

	Major Highways Running through the Okanangan

For those planning to travel throughout the entire area, renting a car is the most convenient option. Car rentals are available in each major town and city, but can fluctuate dramatically in price, so it's worth looking around for the best deals. To drive from one end of the Thompson Okanagan to the other would clock a little more than 600 km (373 mi) and take just over seven hours, provided, of course, that one of the stunning lakes or breathtaking views doesn't entice visitors to step out of the car and stay awhile.

Highway 97 runs the entire length of the Okanagan Valley to just north of Vernon, where it branches west, through Kamloops. For those heading west from Calgary, Highway 1 (Trans Canada Highway) is the easiest route and will drop visitors right in Salmon Arm or right through to Kamloops (and beyond). The drive from Calgary is, in itself, an experience since travellers are treated to a constantly changing backdrop—through the majestic Rocky Mountains, numerous snap shot worthy lakes and finally the orchards that define the Okanagan landscape. Heading west from Calgary, it is fascinating to watch the Rockies change from a distant backdrop to gigantic grey masses that engulf the sky. The mountains truly are enchanting, but they can also be quite dangerous to travel through, especially in the winter. The Highway approaching Golden, B.C. becomes narrow and steep, as vehicles are actually scaling a mountain. Drivers are cautioned to be prepared for the unexpected (including meandering wildlife) and to try and avoid the area at night—the turns are sharp.

From Vancouver, the drive is equally enchanting through pristine country landscapes. The Trans Canada will take visitors right from Vancouver to Kamloops. To get to Kelowna, the fastest route is the Coquihalla Highway (which charges a toll fee) and cuts the drive time considerably. This highway is occasionally closed due to bad weather conditions, so it is best to check before heading out and map alternative routes to be safe.

For those not interested in attempting the drive themselves, leave the driving up to Greyhound or one of the other numerous motorcoaches available, which make several stops through many cities and towns. This option will most definitely take longer, but this way everyone can thoroughly enjoy the ride.

RECREATION

British Columbians love the winter, most obviously because the weather is kind, the powder is great and the entire province is littered with mountains and pristine backcountry–an enticing combination to get out and play. The Okanagan is no exception.

This ardent love of winter has caused residents to get creative with winter activities in the continual search for new ways to enjoy the winter season. From great ski hills to thriving cultural centres, the Thompson Okanagan has a little something for everyone.

	Chairlift at Big White Ski Resort Photographer Blair Ireland

Ski Hills
Considering its proximity to the popular ski resorts of Whistler and Banff, the Okanagan's ski hills are often overlooked. Despite its warmer temperatures, the mountains (all a part of the Monashee Mountain Range and Cascade Mountains) are still cool enough to produce and sustain a lot of snow, providing some great skiing and snowboarding opportunities. Some area ski hills reach heights of over 2,400 metres (8,000 feet) above sea level–few mountains in the world can match these heights. And in addition to offering world-class ski and snowboard hills, located both in and around the Thompson Okanagan, ski hills have become more versatile, offering tobogganing, snow-tubing, and in some cases horse drawn carriages and dog sledding, ensuring that even non-skiers will find more than enough activities that appeal to their interests.

There are about half-a-dozen notable ski resorts located within the Okanagan: Silver Star, Big White, Sun Peaks, Crystal Mountain and Apex Mountain. These resorts can be individually explored, or grouped together as part of a vacation package, offered by a number of vacation providers.

Silver Star
Located just north of Vernon on Highway 97, Silver Star is a year-round resort with a treasure trove of activities and amenities. The pedestrian-only village is a wash of colourful buildings (quite literally since each building uses a minimum of three or four colours) housing an assortment of accommodations, boutiques, restaurants and lounges—all within walking distance to one another. The mountain has two distinct faces offering an ample number of runs for all levels of skiers. The National Altitude Training Centre, a world-class sport and recreation facility is also located at Silver Star.

Big White
The aptly named Big White Resort is situated on one of the tallest peaks in the area. The already large resort, located 45 minutes southeast of Kelowna, has recently undergone major renovations completed for the 2004/2005 ski season and includes considerable upgrades to the terrain park, a new cliff chair, new runs added at Gem Lake and major real estate additions. The village, which is located right on the mountain, is one of the largest on-mountain villages in Canada with over 17 restaurants, eight bars and lounges, numerous shops and a large selection of accommodations, including a hostel. Due to its high elevation (the highest of any resort in BC), guests can literally ski right to the front door of their accommodation. This high level of foot traffic also means that cars are not needed, nor are they allowed right in the village. Horse drawn wagons are available for the more arduous trip up.

Apex Mountain Resort
Apex Mountain Resort is considerably smaller than Big White and Silver Star, but is revered as one of the top hills in the Okanagan, renowned for its great powder and equally great terrain. Due to its smaller size, Apex Mountain also has less crowds. Accommodations are limited right on the hill, but Penticton is only a short drive east (less than one hour).

Crystal Mountain
Crystal Mountain Resort is located only 15 minutes (15 km or 9.5 mi) northwest of Westbank or 30 km (19 mi) west of Kelowna. A gem more than in name, Crystal Mountain isn't as well know as Big White or Silver Star, but offers world-class facilities. Currently, Crystal Mountain is exclusively a winter facility with ski and snowboard capabilities, but is slated to undergo major renovations, which will add a golf course, numerous accommodations, gondola and tea house, tennis courts and more, making it a year-round facility.

Sun Peaks
The Internationally renowned, four-season facilities at Sun Peaks have made it one of the fastest growing ski resorts in British Columbia. Located just outside of Kamloops, at Tod Mountain, Sun Peaks is a bevy of activity year-round. Winter enthusiasts flock in the winter to enjoy world-class ski and snowboard runs, snowshoeing, dog sledding, snowmobile runs and much more. When the snow melts, activities include hiking, mountain biking, golf, paintball, trail rides and fishing, to name a few. The year-round sports centre has a pool, hot tub, basketball and tennis. The village is well equipped with numerous resorts, B&B's, restaurants, and lots of shopping.

Carnival Village at Silver Star Mountain Resort Photographer Morten Byskov

Backcountry
It would be next to impossible to tire of B.C.'s backcountry, which lures people from around the globe with its seemingly untouched and brilliant polychromatic landscapes. Provincial parks are located throughout the Thompson Okanagan region and during the winter, the trails that are littered with hikers in the summer, become great tracks for Nordic skiing, dog sledding, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and ATVing. Hikers will also enjoy the Okanagan's amicable winter weather offering all the charm of a winter wonderland without having to layer too much to keep warm.

Another avenue for exploring the Okanagan's beautiful backcountry is through heli-skiing. A few tour companies in the area offer this service, where participants are flown to otherwise unaccessible areas (usually the side of a mountain) and embark in a thrilling ski/snowboard down. Certain areas in B.C.'s backcountry should not be attempted without the aid of a certified guide. Several tour companies operate out of the area and offer a scope of activities.

URBAN PURSUITS

Museums, Art Galleries and Shopping
Vacationing in the Okanagan doesn't have to be all about the outdoors. When the temperature drops, the cities reveal a host of recreational choices. Complementing, and often playing homage to its natural surroundings, the cultural experiences offered in the Thompson Okanagan rival those of much larger centres. There is no better way to experience the flavour of the Okanagan than through its museums, art galleries and various other cultural attractions.

Most likely inspired by the area's natural surroundings and tranquil environment, artists gravitate toward the Thompson Okanagan, expressing themselves through a variety of artistic mediums. This makes for a wealth of interesting and eclectic art galleries. One of the largest, the Kamloops Art Gallery is praised for its cutting edge approach by featuring artists with varied viewpoints. Opened in 1978, the gallery welcomes up to 30,000 people each year and features over 25 changing exhibitions.

	Rotary Centre for the Arts Atrium at Night Photographer E. Litti Birker

Located in Kelowna's Cultural District, the Rotary Centre for the Arts is the first building of its kind in the Okanagan, combining visual arts, performance art and live music venues for an all encompasing cultural experience. The Cultural District encompasses a six block radius, which runs parallel to the lake front. Also included in this cultural nucleus is the Grand Okanagan Lakefront Resort and Conference Centre, Lake City Casino and Skyreach Place, which are in addition to the large concentration of galleries, over four museums, fine restaurants and theatres.

In addition to the handful of commercial galleries that regularly feature local artists, several small artist-run studios can be found throughout the Okanagan affording people the opportunity to talk one-on-one with artists and perhaps even explore their studios. Most artist run studios will not offer regular hours during the winter season, but most will open by appointment, especially for interested buyers.

The Greater Vernon Museum and Archives tells the story of the Okanagan's earliest residents, the Coast Salish People and moves into its ranching history, up to present day. The Okanagan Science Centre is also located in Vernon and hosts a collection of travelling and permanent exhibits, which appeal to all ages. Perhaps the largest venue in Vernon, the Vernon and District Performing Arts Theatre was completed in 2001 and is state-of-the-art. The venue is home to Junior A Hockey League's Vernon Vipers and presents numerous live performances year-round.

Kamloops is one of the Thompson Okanagan's largest centres, with the attractions to match. The Western Canada Theatre and the Kamloops Symphony Orchestra both make there home in the Sagebrush Theatre, one of the largest venues in the area.

Penticton is probably one of the last places people think to have a winter holiday, given the popularity of its summer atmosphere and warm weather festivals. But like all the other Okanagan destinations, Penticton has a lively downtown with great galleries, small pottery studios and eclectic shops worth the visit any time of year. One attraction is the Art Gallery of South Okanagan, which is comprised of four exhibition halls displaying the works of local , provincial and national artists. Also downtown, the R.N. Atkinson Museum outlines Penticton's colourful past, while the city's artistic vein pulses in the Leir House Cultural Centre, home to the Okanagan School of the Arts.

Hockey

Ask any fan around and they'll agree that some of the best Canadian hockey is played at the Major Junior League level. In British Columbia, teams at this level belong to a branch called the Western Hockey League (WHL), which works in conjunction with the Canadian Hockey League (CHL) and includes teams from B.C., Alberta, Saskatchewan and the Western United States. Those who attend a Kelowna Rockets or Kamloops Blazers game are sure to see a future National Hockey Leaguer (NHL) in action. Kamloops Blazers alumni features such impressive names as Jarome Iginla, Mark Recchi, Scott Neidermayer, Rob Brown and Darryl Sydor, to name a few. Chuck Kobasew, Scott Hannan, Brett McLean and Scott Parker were all former Kelowna Rockets.

Wineries and Festivals

A visit to the Okanagan just wouldn't be complete without a visit to one of its many wineries. While some area wineries turn over the closed sign for the winter, most of the larger ones (and a few of the smaller establishments) are open in some capacity. The Winter/Icewine Festival, which takes place every January at Sun Peaks Resort, focuses on wine education, wine tastings and seminars, and is a great place to start researching the local wineries.

The Kelowna Snowfest has been a winter tradition in the valley since 1973. The festival takes place in the third week of January and adds a Kelowna twist by mixing in typically non-winter events with the winter carnival standards. Such events include a parade of lights, dart tournament, snow sculpting, live music, dance competitions, ski and freeze water sports, baby race, magic shows and the ever popular polar bear dip, to name a small few. No snow? No problem, Kelowna snowfest is a go with or without the snow and many of its events are free-of-charge.

The Vernon Winter Carnival is one of the longest running winter festivals in the Okanagan. The festival's roots date back to 1893, when a carnival was held on Long Lake in Naramata. The festival as it is know today was first held in 1961, and has been a community favourite ever since. Its most popular events include a hot air balloon competition, snow sculpturing and the Queen Silver Star excellence program, which commences in a pageant of sorts.